英伦日记:教堂的钟声(3)
2014年07月22日
几乎每个人都听过教堂的钟声,可你们知道这美妙的钟声是怎么来的吗?
晚上在AMBLESIDE的LILY吃晚餐——强烈推荐LILY。这家餐馆是我所住的B&B女主人推荐的,当地人就餐居多。我们于是前往,SLOW COOK慢火微炖的鸭腿很香,三文鱼和扇贝串也好吃,相比较牛肉倒不显得有特色了。
吃完饭,一家人在小镇上冒着细雨消食。
今天是我们来到英国以后第一次雨中漫步。前几天都是大晴。今儿从午后起,细雨织成密雾笼罩着周围的山林或村舍,烟雨迷蒙。那些馋嘴的牛羊无惧细雨继续在草地上啃草。
英国人很有特色。大约是长期下雨的缘故,几乎没人打伞。大家的标准装备是一件冲锋衣,抗风挡雨,雨再大,都有人不疾不徐地游荡。
我们一家出发前就融入英国生活,穿着和大家一样的装备,也不打伞,东走走西看看。
不远处的教堂传来叮叮当当的钟声,我们一看表,很奇怪,既非整点报时,也非礼拜,不知为何长鸣?顺着钟声,我们走进教堂。
教堂区域内空旷。偶有游客走过。
不显眼的一扇小门裂个缝,缝里走出一个老太。她随手合上门,挽着门口等她的老头离去。秀才好奇,推门进去看。偶得探头看看,发现是旋转而上的窄小旋梯,他不肯上了,觉得有些恐怖。我拉着他的手,推着他的屁股硬上。
秀才在前头突然跟一个人说起话来。看他肚子里单词没几个,所以三两下交锋就败下阵来,他走下旋梯,跟我说:“楼上有个门,敲钟的时候不许进。里面有人。”
我们下楼后在教堂附近游览。
有个老太迎我们赶来。秀才说,这就是刚才与他对话的老太。
老太说:“我刚才跟你先生说,我们在练习敲钟,敲的时候不能进出,等间隙可以进去。他就离去了,我现在到间隙出来请你们一同观赏,如果你们有兴趣的话。”
我们当然有兴趣!
一家人随老太爬了一圈一圈又一圈,终于爬到快到教堂顶端,打开一扇小门,里面有近十个人。每个人手里拉一根粗绳。
老太跟我解释,通常教堂都有几口钟,村里会有敲钟的队伍,周日礼拜前用敲钟的方式召集村里的人。但每周会有一天晚上大家练习敲钟。AMBLESIDE练习敲钟的时间就是周一晚上七点半到九点。
有一个类似指挥的人喊一个数字,大家开始拉绳。不同的绳子拉下,如编钟一样就有不同的钟被敲响。每个敲钟的人都庄严肃穆,表情类似我们的祭祀。这组敲钟的人,都是上年纪的老头老太。
我问那位领我们上来的老太,这些都是村里人吗?她说,不是,这些人来自全国不同地方。村里的敲钟组,有四人出去度假了。而另外来补位的四人,来自其他地方,到AMBLESIDE度假,顺便补位。她说,通常每个敲钟人到一地,就会跟当地教堂联系,看自己能不能赶上敲钟的补位。他们村的其他人,说不定此时也在某地练习着敲当地的钟。
我好奇他们是怎么WORK的,敲钟有谱吗?像五线谱那样?
老太答:有。
她掏出一个本子,打开给我看,上面写着1234567,画着不同的连线符号,组成好看的波纹。她说,这就是钟谱。这些敲钟的人,能把钟谱从头背到尾。那个指挥喊一个数字,他们就知道是从第几章开始,然后按自己所在的号数拉。
我有些蠢蠢欲动,问他们,像我这样的外人想试着拉一下礼貌吗?
我手还没伸出去,他们如见到魔鬼一样吓得一齐摆手:“NO!NO!NO!”
我赶紧缩回去。
他们解释,先把宗教因素放下,这些钟极重,那个八号位的钟,分量相当于一辆车。不是经过专业训练的人,会把胳膊拉断。果然,等新一轮拉钟开始的时候,那个八号位启动时会被绳索拉得吊起来,自己再用力拽下来,通过重力才能让钟运转。
我问这些老人,一般新手若开始敲钟怎么才能融入?
他们答:WATCH。得先看好几年,在教练的教导下,稔熟于胸了才可以开始试拉。现在拉绳的每一位,都最少有四十年的敲钟经验了。
我有些担心地问:你们有继承人吗?如果都是你们这些老人拉钟,以后谁做这个事情?
他们答:不用担心。每个大学都有敲钟队,我们还有敲钟比赛。整个英国,有的教堂有四口钟,有的六口,这所教堂是八口,最多有十六口钟的教堂。背下谱以后,你只要有敲钟的本领,到哪所教堂都可以做这个事情。
这不仅是一件精神上的事,也是体力上的事。通常一次演奏只能拉五六个曲子。大家歇息一下,再拉另一组。一个半小时的运动量与一场马拉松无异。
他们专心练钟的时候,我和秀才还有偶得都静心聆听。偶得这样淘气年纪的男孩,会被钟声吸引到安静坐在那里整整一个钟头。他不动,也不说话,眼睛一眨也不眨地盯着绳索。钟,我们是看不见的,它们被封在塔尖。
那些肃穆的表情,那段温暖而庄严的钟声,会让每一个经过的灵魂安静。
听得久了,你会相信上帝是真实存在的。祂以各种方式,传递着与我们的交流。无时无刻,祂不在等待我们。等那一刻,我们经过,我们听见,我们看见,我们闻见,我们梦见,我们最终会相见。
(文章版权所有,媒体转载前请联系[email protected];题图取自六六英国之旅现场发来的照片)
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