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村夫烤鱼

村夫烤鱼

2008年09月19日

我居住的楼下，不晓得何日开了家村夫烤鱼。我喜欢现在住的地方，是因为这里的人气，几乎所有的好吃好喝都团聚在我的周围，让我很容易就体会到满足。

某日无意间尝试了他家的烤鱼，顿时呼吸急促，瞳孔缩小，大有惊为天人的感觉！天下居然有如此好吃的美味！一盆咕嘟咕嘟炖得火热的鲶鱼，配上十三香小龙虾，一瓶啤酒，一罐王老吉，你就是送给我威灵顿公爵夫人的头衔，我都不肯去。

自那日起，我就对烤鱼朝思暮想，念念不忘，几乎所有的朋友都听我吹嘘过烤鱼如何颠倒众生，钩魂摄魄。我还大张旗鼓地开仓放粮，豪爽地请所有朋友都来品尝，当然买单的是我，果然赢得了一番美誉。我想我对于鱼的喜欢来自于那种逍遥透爽的味道，朋友对它的喜爱来自于有人请客。那一向村夫烤鱼的火爆，桌子排到店外三里之遥，服务员对顾客爱理不理，无论等待多久，饕客们都流着口水啃着虾钳子聊以自慰，都成了我们这一片的街景。

我对烤鱼的炽烈情感，嘎然终止在某日中午，且不带一点戒毒的苦痛，再回首那家店门都感到是背叛自己的恋人，心头的旧疾一样懒回顾，缘于某日我错误的决定：我居然在正午时分，去吃那原本属于夜晚的烤鱼。

好友自美国回，她又盛邀我苏浙汇聚，被我羞辱一番，告诉她苏浙汇在我们这里已经翻篇儿了，我们最近流行烤鱼，并邀她速速过来一聚。时值烈日当头，她打了车，流着汗来到烤鱼店。

店里冷冷清清，我们是第一桌。如往常一样，点了条三斤四两的鲶鱼。我知道这条鱼对于两个女人来说分量偏大，不过没关系，以前我也经常打包带走，留宵夜。在等烤鱼的空儿，我叫了一斤龙虾。

龙虾一上桌，我就不乐意了，剥一个，肉板味冲，全然不似夜里龙虾的青春靓丽。以前有个客户曾经对工厂发的货表示疑虑：“THE CONFIRM SAMPLE LIKE A 20-YEAR-OLD YOUNG LADY, BUT NOW I’M HOLDING A 80-YEAR-OLD LADY, WHAT’S GOING ON?"我现在的疑虑跟那无辜客户差不多。嘴里的虾肉味同嚼蜡。我叫来店里驻守的老者，跟他说，虾我不要了，因为是昨夜剩的。老者倒也老实，明白告诉我，是昨夜剩的，但绝对不是坏的，拿回去给我重新卤一下，但坚决不同意退货。

勉强吃了开胃菜龙虾。

烤鱼上来。

我当场质疑：这是我那三斤四两貌比杨贵妃的肥嘟嘟鲶鱼吗？怎么看都像赵飞燕。以前夜里每每上桌的鲶鱼，哪怕只有三斤，都盘了两盘，敦实坐于盘上，这条，怎么看起来鱼比黄花娇呢？

店主拍着胸脯保证说只此一条，别无分鱼。

越吃越生气。

我们两个娟秀的女士，平日里吃一半剩一半的，没两口鱼就吃完了，还不够。我忍不住与坐堂理论。我要的不是那短斤少两的鱼，我要的是朋友面前的尊严。我把这里的鱼和虾吹得甘叫嫦娥奔月，甘叫女娲补天，哪里晓得竟这副德行，朋友对我的讪笑之意挂满嘴角。心头滴滴答答流血。

坐堂一副死猪不怕开水烫的模样，摆明了，我就这样，你怎么办吧！他反复强调说鱼还是那条鱼，虾还是那盆虾，你嘴有问题。在我的据理力争之下，最终同意三斤四两的鱼算三斤。

我坐在桌前，对残鱼剩汤叹气，自我解嘲地说：“这条鱼的白天和夜晚，真的很像女人的夜晚和白天。”朋友不解，问我何故。

我答：“这条鱼的夜晚，光鲜亮丽，盛装华珮，就好像白天上了妆的女人一般讨喜，而白天的鱼，看起来病病恹恹，皱皮缩水，很像夜晚卸妆的女人。于是，这条鱼与女人一样，有着白天与黑夜两张面孔。今天的过错在我，而不在鱼。我既已见识到夜的美好，为何要揭开白日的面纱呢？所有的美丽，毁于一旦。怪不得人家说，宋美龄从不在卸妆后与蒋介石相聚。蒋介石印象里，宋美龄就是绝色美女。我的绝色美女，就这样不留念想地死去。”

为什么想起来写这篇文章？

还是想起了三鹿。

一个品牌的创立要花很长的时间，很多的口碑，费很多的心血，而一个品牌的倒掉，却如雷峰塔般只一瞬间。昨天有朋友说，在中国，最赚钱的职业就是开饭店，我却摇头说，因为你去吃的都是红火的，那些个谢幕的你都不去了。周遭的饭店，三五年一轮换，一边在开，一边在倒。你很难找到一家店，像欧洲的小咖啡馆一样，爷爷坐店门口抽烟，传给父亲坐门口抽烟，又传到孩子手里。你八十年前去，那家店是那一个味道的咖啡，你八十年后去怀旧，依旧是那个口味，店里连装帧都不会移位。

我多么希望，有一天，商家不存侥幸心理，不追求眼前利益，能够把一个民族品牌经营得像可口可乐，难吃的麦当劳，肯德基一样，屹立多年不倒，走遍全球都俏丽。

仅以此文，祭奠我曾经的烤鱼。
　

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