村夫烤鱼
2008年09月19日
我居住的楼下,不晓得何日开了家村夫烤鱼。我喜欢现在住的地方,是因为这里的人气,几乎所有的好吃好喝都团聚在我的周围,让我很容易就体会到满足。
某日无意间尝试了他家的烤鱼,顿时呼吸急促,瞳孔缩小,大有惊为天人的感觉!天下居然有如此好吃的美味!一盆咕嘟咕嘟炖得火热的鲶鱼,配上十三香小龙虾,一瓶啤酒,一罐王老吉,你就是送给我威灵顿公爵夫人的头衔,我都不肯去。
自那日起,我就对烤鱼朝思暮想,念念不忘,几乎所有的朋友都听我吹嘘过烤鱼如何颠倒众生,钩魂摄魄。我还大张旗鼓地开仓放粮,豪爽地请所有朋友都来品尝,当然买单的是我,果然赢得了一番美誉。我想我对于鱼的喜欢来自于那种逍遥透爽的味道,朋友对它的喜爱来自于有人请客。那一向村夫烤鱼的火爆,桌子排到店外三里之遥,服务员对顾客爱理不理,无论等待多久,饕客们都流着口水啃着虾钳子聊以自慰,都成了我们这一片的街景。
我对烤鱼的炽烈情感,嘎然终止在某日中午,且不带一点戒毒的苦痛,再回首那家店门都感到是背叛自己的恋人,心头的旧疾一样懒回顾,缘于某日我错误的决定:我居然在正午时分,去吃那原本属于夜晚的烤鱼。
好友自美国回,她又盛邀我苏浙汇聚,被我羞辱一番,告诉她苏浙汇在我们这里已经翻篇儿了,我们最近流行烤鱼,并邀她速速过来一聚。时值烈日当头,她打了车,流着汗来到烤鱼店。
店里冷冷清清,我们是第一桌。如往常一样,点了条三斤四两的鲶鱼。我知道这条鱼对于两个女人来说分量偏大,不过没关系,以前我也经常打包带走,留宵夜。在等烤鱼的空儿,我叫了一斤龙虾。
龙虾一上桌,我就不乐意了,剥一个,肉板味冲,全然不似夜里龙虾的青春靓丽。以前有个客户曾经对工厂发的货表示疑虑:“THE CONFIRM SAMPLE LIKE A 20-YEAR-OLD YOUNG LADY, BUT NOW I’M HOLDING A 80-YEAR-OLD LADY, WHAT’S GOING ON?"我现在的疑虑跟那无辜客户差不多。嘴里的虾肉味同嚼蜡。我叫来店里驻守的老者,跟他说,虾我不要了,因为是昨夜剩的。老者倒也老实,明白告诉我,是昨夜剩的,但绝对不是坏的,拿回去给我重新卤一下,但坚决不同意退货。
勉强吃了开胃菜龙虾。
烤鱼上来。
我当场质疑:这是我那三斤四两貌比杨贵妃的肥嘟嘟鲶鱼吗?怎么看都像赵飞燕。以前夜里每每上桌的鲶鱼,哪怕只有三斤,都盘了两盘,敦实坐于盘上,这条,怎么看起来鱼比黄花娇呢?
店主拍着胸脯保证说只此一条,别无分鱼。
越吃越生气。
我们两个娟秀的女士,平日里吃一半剩一半的,没两口鱼就吃完了,还不够。我忍不住与坐堂理论。我要的不是那短斤少两的鱼,我要的是朋友面前的尊严。我把这里的鱼和虾吹得甘叫嫦娥奔月,甘叫女娲补天,哪里晓得竟这副德行,朋友对我的讪笑之意挂满嘴角。心头滴滴答答流血。
坐堂一副死猪不怕开水烫的模样,摆明了,我就这样,你怎么办吧!他反复强调说鱼还是那条鱼,虾还是那盆虾,你嘴有问题。在我的据理力争之下,最终同意三斤四两的鱼算三斤。
我坐在桌前,对残鱼剩汤叹气,自我解嘲地说:“这条鱼的白天和夜晚,真的很像女人的夜晚和白天。”朋友不解,问我何故。
我答:“这条鱼的夜晚,光鲜亮丽,盛装华珮,就好像白天上了妆的女人一般讨喜,而白天的鱼,看起来病病恹恹,皱皮缩水,很像夜晚卸妆的女人。于是,这条鱼与女人一样,有着白天与黑夜两张面孔。今天的过错在我,而不在鱼。我既已见识到夜的美好,为何要揭开白日的面纱呢?所有的美丽,毁于一旦。怪不得人家说,宋美龄从不在卸妆后与蒋介石相聚。蒋介石印象里,宋美龄就是绝色美女。我的绝色美女,就这样不留念想地死去。”
为什么想起来写这篇文章?
还是想起了三鹿。
一个品牌的创立要花很长的时间,很多的口碑,费很多的心血,而一个品牌的倒掉,却如雷峰塔般只一瞬间。昨天有朋友说,在中国,最赚钱的职业就是开饭店,我却摇头说,因为你去吃的都是红火的,那些个谢幕的你都不去了。周遭的饭店,三五年一轮换,一边在开,一边在倒。你很难找到一家店,像欧洲的小咖啡馆一样,爷爷坐店门口抽烟,传给父亲坐门口抽烟,又传到孩子手里。你八十年前去,那家店是那一个味道的咖啡,你八十年后去怀旧,依旧是那个口味,店里连装帧都不会移位。
我多么希望,有一天,商家不存侥幸心理,不追求眼前利益,能够把一个民族品牌经营得像可口可乐,难吃的麦当劳,肯德基一样,屹立多年不倒,走遍全球都俏丽。
仅以此文,祭奠我曾经的烤鱼。
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