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英伦日记:乡音(4)

英伦日记:乡音(4)

2014年07月29日


  车往GRETNA开。
  
  秀才选择这个落脚点是因为这是从英格兰到苏格兰的第一个小镇。小镇离英格兰与苏格兰的边界线只有7个MILE,以ELOPE闻名——就是私奔。
  
  英格兰的法定婚龄是18岁。16岁以下结婚需要父母同意。在几百年前,经常碰到难搞的老丈人,弄得很多小爱侣不能鸳鸯成双,他们会奔到允许14岁结婚的苏格兰来,在被气急败坏的爹追上打腿以前,冲到GRETNA GREEN,镇上离英格兰最近的一家铺子是铁匠铺。他们狂奔着过去,铁匠一看小屁孩男女跑来,迅速放下手里正在锻造的家什,找俩路人观礼,自己证婚,远处爹在跑,近处速塞给给孩子们个证书,敲一下锻造机,成功!
  
  现在来GRETNA私奔的人越来越少,大家都是有组织有计划地带着家人朋友来这里公奔。
  
  我和秀才也是公奔。
  
  路上雨下得滂沱。车里开20度竟然在供暖气!
  
  刚从矿井出来,踩一脚的水,浑身发冷,看见第一个休息区(SERVICES)就要秀才停车,不喝点热的吃点烫的,感觉都冷到骨头里。
  
  休息区里挤满了湿漉漉的人。COSTA大排长龙。英国有个很明显的感受是人口老龄化,服务人员少。越是少,还越是聊天。任你排队多长,收银员和服务员照样逮谁跟谁说话。后面的人倒也不急,各自找身前身后的陌生人家长里短。你要是英文不好,在英国呆一段,会有无数老头老太免费指导你英文。他们有足够耐心等你手机查到单词给他们看,他们还教你发音。
  
  买杯咖啡花了我半个多小时排队!
  
  排在我身后的是俩亚裔男女。因他们用英文交流,让我很难判断来自哪里。
  
  突然,那个女孩来一句“我劳哎!”我扑哧笑了,回头用英文问:“你们来自新加坡吗?”
  
  男孩答:“马来西亚。你怎知?”
  
  我笑说:“我听你说‘我劳哎’,在新加坡,我们也这样说。感觉很亲切。”
  
  说那句话的姑娘羞得捂着脸满地跺脚。男孩也哈哈大笑。两拨人自来熟。
  
  男孩在英国读书,昨天刚拿到毕业证,今天起环游英国,下一站是爱丁堡。我则说我长居中国,已经去过英国哪里,有啥好玩的便推荐给他。
  
  “我劳哎”,这句口头禅,几乎每个地方都有。上海是“擦那”,北京人是“我靠”,合肥人是“我冷”。
  
  1996年初到上海工作的时候,有一天走在南京路上,感觉孤孤单单,那个繁华的大城市,跟我几乎没有关联。怎样都融入不进去。在新世界百货的天桥上,前面有一对人聊天,突然蹦出一句“我冷”,顿感亲切备至,竟然追上去拍人家肩膀用乡音问:“合肥来的?”对方也非常快乐地拍我肩膀称兄道弟说“老乡”。
  
  前一阵子去看话剧。话剧院门口没车位了,遂弯到附近小区蹭车位。前一辆蹭车位的车子因报不出住户的姓名被无情赶出来。我们正要掉头走,突见保安热情招手放我们进,还主动开了栅栏。秀才大惊,说六六老师现在名气大到连陌生小区保安都认识你了?
  
  我又诧异又得意。正要摇窗下来致谢,或下车合影,忽闻一堆武汉话飘来,对秀才说:“武汉车牌,你武汉人?”俩人如对上暗号一般开始扯东湖和江汉路。门卫说:“我看见你车牌是武汉的,好像看见亲人一样。快进去吧!话剧院没车位了吧?”
  
  我们大笑。
  
  车至GRETNA已是晚上8点,全家去镇子上觅食。
  
  真没想到GRETNA如此袖珍!只有半条街!一条闹市区大约长30米,俩杂货店一糕点店一FISH&CHIPS店,没了!
  
  正发愁晚上要饿肚子。突见一繁体字“兴华”的外卖餐馆。门口大排长龙。我们都很激动,混在一群白人里进去点餐。下单的服务员竟然是个苏格兰女人!以至于让我怀疑这家餐馆的水平,坚决要见大厨。
  
  大厨还真是中国人——香港的。
  
  我俩只能用英语谈菜谱。他不懂普通话,我不懂粤语。
  
  下完单,我嫌里面拥挤,便冲他招手说:“再见!一会见!”
  
  等我过来收菜,发现满满一大包!只有5镑的炒面,放了N多大虾!我有些过意不去,说你卖得太便宜了!
  
  他答:“我在这里几乎见不到中国人。看到你,听见你说再见,很快乐。”
  
  只一句“再见”和“谢谢”,我们便认同了对方。
  
  乡音,是那个无论走到万里之外,一句暗号足以,让你找到亲人,找到组织,找到一切与过去有联系的轨迹,进而觉得天涯若比邻。
  
(文章版权所有,媒体转载前请联系[email protected];题图取自六六英国之旅现场发来的照片)

 

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