大约步行10分钟,就到了离家最近的湿巴刹。
湿巴刹在新加坡被老外称为WET MARKET。这个词很形象,着重在WET上,这是大多数欧美人无法忍受的地方。我却非常喜欢这里,因为这里很象我中国的家的菜场。早上天不亮这里就开张,里面的大妈叔叔阿姨小媳妇老公公们挤得一塌糊涂,人声鼎沸,卖鱼的贩子门口最脏,尽管他们不时冲刷着湿淋淋的地板,但鳞片总在阳光下泛着耀眼的彩虹光芒。亲切的地方是常有人隔了三五米开外扯了嗓门用潮州话或是福建话大声地聊天,不外乎是今天什么菜贵了,哪家的什么新鲜。
我喜欢逛菜场,感觉上比逛大商场要惬意许多。一是随便,我不必打扮得光鲜周 正,随便从抽屉里翻出件陈年的套头衫,下面甚至是条家居的裤子,塞上双旧旧的,走过很多路的,也许鞋底的花纹已经磨平的拖鞋就出去了。再就是没有心理负担,任何物品没有眼馋却买不起的折磨,进尔痛苦地想钱还是挣得不够多。想吃什么便买什么,也没有特别的计划今天吃啥,看见时鲜货一时冲动就包了走。待到大包小包勾满十个手指头,常常疑惑自己是不是刚才已经付了钱却忘记拿东西的时候,就有种丰收的满足感,虽然胳膊被重物挂得很酸。
这里的小贩大多认识我,虽然我每周只来一次,你可以说他们出于生意人的精明招徕顾客,也可以说是因为我的多话给人印象深刻。有一家我固定买蘑菇的菜商,中年妇女,精瘦精瘦的,每次看见我老远就喊,今天的澳洲蘑菇大大粒哦!很划算!就剩最后一包了,我替你留的。有时候喊完她自己都笑了,因为不用找我就能看见那堆码放整齐堆得老高的蘑菇。我会象家庭妇女一样教她如何烧素。她总说她不知道笋片要与什么搭配才好吃,还问我马蹄除了烧糖水还可以烧什么。
隔一周她又会跟我汇报学习的成果,例如那种烧法很好吃,或者另一种不适合新加坡本地口味。我并不知道她是否真的实践过,如果仅仅为了与我搭话推销那一包两包的蘑菇,我不得不赞叹世界上最成功的推销员其实并不在ORACLE或者是化妆品店。为那种几角钱的生意而记住每个顾客一周前的话,该是怎样的敬业。
另一家的摊主,我并不喜欢,不到万不得以我不去光顾的。那个老板娘太职业化,技术的纯熟,态度的倨傲令我敬畏。她总以很不容质疑的口气告诉我为什么她家的菜比较贵一点点:“本地葱啊!不是马来那种又粗又长的乡下葱,怎么可能一个价?”尽管我并不信她。
她可以十只手指分开来夹住不同的菜,分拣菜的速度快到象变魔术般眼花缭乱。绝活是一只手抓菜,一只手收钱,嘴巴里叼根橡皮筋还在绑着,更绝的是,她居然在牙关紧闭,眼睛盯着手里的菜快成逗鸡眼的时候,还非常口齿清晰地抱着菜价,时而马来话,时而英文,时而方言!一心多用达到极限,何止一手画方一手画圆?可能嘴巴还在画三角,腿还在织毛线!
清晨时光,抢钱时光,大多数菜贩都是手脚并用并且不断招呼经过身边的顾客的。只有一家特别,那家的摊主是两个年轻的男孩,各人耳朵上总是夹着一只烟。他们俩手里端着扑克,笑咪咪地甩着牌,脚敲在台面上,很悠闲。他们卖菜的方式更特别。每样菜都用篮头装好,论筐卖,通常一篮一块,不过菜的量却比旁人多一些。他们在显眼的地方绑了个大茶缸,搪瓷的,上面写着硬币入蓝,自找。问都不问一声,也不正眼看顾客们。有的AUNTY看准了这两个男孩的不上心,总是大喊着,呀,你家菜怎么这么贵?还这么少?两个男孩便挥挥手说,随便拿随便拿,不要烦啦!有这个功夫讨价,我好去买下新电信了。这家很不上心的小老板,好象菜还卖得特别快,常常在别家菜才卖到一半的时候他们就收摊了。我担心过他们能不能把本收回来,实际上我的担心好象是多余的,去年他们还开着一辆小货车,今年其中一个男孩又多开来一辆TOYOTA。
生意人有好几种,兢兢业业型,按时上工,推迟放工,出力多,收获少;职业型,天生的生意人,不放过任何一个机会,将每一分钟都用在销售上,以工作为快乐;靠天收型,懒洋洋坐树下等撞死的兔子。
而奇怪得很,我们都是那兔子,心甘情愿撞在懒汉的小筐筐里。
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